For years, Landmannalaugar lived only in my imagination. In 2020, the plan was set; we would finally travel to Iceland, to stand among those painted mountains I had seen in photographs, to walk the trails that twist between steam and silence. But the world closed. The pandemic kept us home, and Landmannalaugar slipped back into the realm of dreams, postponed but never forgotten.
In 2025, we finally took the step.
The rhyolite mountains as they rise up from the valley
Hiking the trails.
Stepping into the black lava field of Laugahraun, we were greeted by sharp rocks softened by green moss. Between them, blocks of shiny black obsidian caught the light. Beyond it rose the mountains I had waited so long to see. Photos had never done them justice. Instead of the usual gray and brown of most ranges, these peaks were alive with color: orange, red, yellow, green, even blue streaks shimmering in the light.
Steam and sulfur curl from vents in the earth
We set out toward Brennisteinsalda, the “Sulphur Wave.” Steam rose from the ground as we walked, and the smell of sulfur lingered in the cool air. The closer we got, the more striking the mountain became, its slopes striped in fiery colors. From its ridge, we could see Bláhnjúkur, the Blue Peak, standing tall and dark in contrast.
A solitary hiker at the slopes of Bláhnjúkur, the ‘Blue peak’
Our hike took us to the rounded peak of Brennisteinsalda. The clouds that were present earlier that day faded. With the sun peaking through, the views were breathtaking. An horizon of rhyolite mountains as far as the eye could see. It was one of those moments that made the effort of the hike melt away. Just standing there, surrounded by Iceland’s raw beauty, was unforgettable.
The views from Brennisteinsalda are breathtaking
Looking back
Our visit to Landmannalaugar was short - just one day - but it left a lasting impression. The colorful mountains, the shiny obsidian lava fields, the steaming vents, and the quiet remoteness of the Highlands made it everything I had imagined and more.
As we drove away, I knew I wasn’t finished with this place. One day, I hope to return. This time for longer, to explore more trails and spend more time among the painted mountains.
